Benje Hot Springs, Gjirokastër and the Blue Eye

For hours we drove through the hilly landscape towards the south, mostly on narrow but very well-developed roads.

The panoramic road repeatedly offered breathtaking views of the countryside.

The area was almost deserted, we didn’t encounter many cars, which was a blessing given the narrow serpentines.

The route led us over hills and fields, and at times the serpentine roads clung so tightly to the mountain that the view into the depths took our breath away.

After more than six hours of driving, we reached a junction that led to the Benje hot springs and the famous Ottoman bridge.

The thermal pools are freely accessible, the water is warm but not too hot, which would have been unbearable in this weather.

Numerous pools of different depths await visitors. Each pool is said to have a different healing effect, as the mineral composition of the water varies.

We tried several different pools and enjoyed the water and relaxation after the beautiful but exhausting drive through the hilly countryside.

An hour later we finally reached the destination of today’s journey – Gjirokastër. The houses are closely nestled against the steep mountains, giving the town a dramatic appearance.

Gjirokastër belongs entirely to the tourists, one souvenir shop lines up next to the other. You’ll search in vain for real handicrafts – the goods are mostly the same as in every other such shop.

The old town is beautiful, with its unique stone houses that are part of UNESCO World Heritage, and transports the visitor back to a long-forgotten time.

The narrow alleys are cobbled, which adds the perfect final touch to the ambience. Numerous restaurants spoil guests with delicacies from the region.

Gjirokastër is stunning and every traveler to Albania should pay this town a visit.

We strolled through the romantic lanes and had grilled vegetables, a crisp salad and freshly grilled meat on the terrace of a restaurant.

Albanian cuisine is clearly inspired by its neighboring countries. Hearty Balkan dishes can be found just as much as Italian and Greek influences. Altogether, it’s the perfect combination and everyone is guaranteed to find something to their liking.

In the evening, we went back to the so-called “fan zone” of Gjirokastër. Together with a group of Belgian women, we watched another match of the European Championship in a cozy tavern. My partner drank Albanian beer, I had refreshing juices.

A typical sweet dessert rounded off the culinary experience.

Tired and happy, we fell into a deep sleep after this long day.

The next morning began with a delicious breakfast on the balcony of our room with a panoramic view of the mountainous landscape.

We then visited the Zekate House from the 19th century, which once belonged to an Ottoman family and is now open to the public.

On three floors, it offers a fascinating insight into the lives of people from a bygone era.

We saw the family’s living quarters and bedrooms; there were rooms that were only used in winter and others that were only used in summer. I can highly recommend a visit to this house to any traveler.

Afterward, we continued on to the so-called "Blue Eye" – Syri i Kaltër. This spring, which glows in various turquoise hues, gushes from a depth of 50 meters and reminds visitors of the iris of an eye, hence the name.

We parked in the large parking lot and had actually planned to walk from there, but at the last moment decided to take the mini train, which had a stop just past the station.

This decision turned out to be absolutely right, as the “eye” was still quite far away and the sun was already beating down mercilessly from the sky again.

The surroundings of the Blue Eye were idyllic. Gentle hills through which the crystal-clear river meandered, tall trees provided welcome shade, and the delicious smell of grilled food wafted from numerous restaurants picturesquely located along the riverbank.

The Blue Eye itself was indeed impressive, but one could only catch a brief glimpse of it from the viewing platform, as there were so many people. Still, it was a special experience.

We refreshed ourselves with a swim in the ice-cold water of the river – it was wonderful.

Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely light lunch before setting off for the final leg of today’s journey.

Shortly after, we reached our destination for the day – the little village of Lukova on the Albanian coast, where we would spend the next three nights in a beautiful hotel with sea view.

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Lin, Pogradec and Lake Ohrid

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Lukova and the Coast