Day 1: In the Valley of the Beautiful Women

Easter had just passed, and I had been given a few days off. So we decided to explore our neighboring country a little more closely.

We set off by car early in the morning. The drive to Eger in northern Hungary took more than four hours. By the time we arrived, it was already early afternoon.

We had booked a lovely little apartment on the outskirts of Eger. Our actual destination, however, was not the town itself but the “Valley of the Beautiful Women” – Szépasszonyvölgy – which lies about a 20-minute walk from Eger.

Eger and its surrounding region have long been known for producing excellent wine. In the “Valley of the Beautiful Women,” there are numerous wine cellars where you can sample this delicious beverage.

Wine is clearly the main attraction here. Not every cellar offers food, and where it is available, it is usually simple – lard or bacon bread, cheese, basic salads, sausages.

In recent years, however, a few restaurants have opened at the entrance to the valley, and there are even two guesthouses where you can stay – though you should book well in advance.

The origin of the valley’s name is unclear. Several legends surround its beginnings. What is certain, though, is that the wine cellars have existed since the late 18th century, and the name first appeared around the mid-19th century.

Today, the area enjoys great popularity.

As soon as you enter the valley, you feel like you’ve stepped into another world. The valley is surrounded by dense forests and gentle hills. In the center lies a large park, which also features a playground. Around this park, numerous simple wine cellars are arranged in a semicircle.

We hadn’t picked out any particular one and simply started with the first we came across. There, we each sampled a small glass of wine and ordered bread with bacon to go with it.

Then we moved on to the next cellar. We made sure to order only very small amounts of wine each time. After all, the goal wasn’t to end up drunk at the end of the evening, but to try as many different varieties as possible.

We especially liked the Juhász Pince, where the culinary offerings were a bit more extensive than in most other cellars.

Along the way, we came across a stand selling “Kürtőskalács” – traditional Hungarian chimney cakes. While I’m not the biggest fan of sweets, after all the wine and bacon bread, they were a welcome change.

We continued on through other wine cellars. Since the weather was quite pleasant, we were fortunately able to sit outside at most places.

Only when it started to get dark did we move indoors. Most of the cellars are simply furnished with wooden benches and tables, while others feel rather stylish, almost elegant. We usually prefer the simpler cellars that have preserved their rustic, original character.

Eventually, the wine became a bit too much for me – much as I enjoy it. So I switched to non-alcoholic drinks, which is no problem in the valley. Nowadays, some wine cellars even offer coffee.

Wherever we liked the wine the most, we bought bottles to take home.

It was already very late by the time we returned to the apartment, happy and tired.