Vang Vieng
It was still pitch dark in Vientiane when a taxi picked us up and took us to the brand-new railway station. The high-speed train line connecting Vientiane with the north of Laos had only recently opened. While it once took half a day on bumpy, unpaved roads to reach Vang Vieng, it now only took one hour , and just another to reach Luang Prabang, which until recently was a full day's journey from the capital.
Our first-class tickets cost about €20—a small amount for us, but hardly affordable for most Laotians.
At exactly 7:00 a.m., the sleek, modern train pulled out of the station. Much of the route passed through tunnels, so we didn’t get to see very much of the landscape.
At the station in Vang Vieng, tuk-tuks were already waiting to take passengers to their accommodations.
Since it was still early, we couldn’t check in yet, so we left our bags at the hotel and set out to explore this lively little town.
Vang Vieng is a large village with dusty streets and charming little houses that give it a very laid-back atmosphere. The river is crossed by rickety bridges—some of which looked like they hadn’t been repaired in years.
On the far side of the river, the village becomes even more rural. There, we discovered a lovely little café run by Brits. We ordered freshly pressed juices and avocado toast, which turned out to be absolutely incredible.
From the veranda of the café, we had a perfect view of the river. We watched as scooters—sometimes carrying up to five people, animals, and all sorts of bizarre cargo—sped across the rickety bridge.
After lunch we wandered through the romantic alleys of the village, stopped for coffee, and eventually returned to the hotel to move into our room.
The hotel was beautifully set in a lush garden, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. In the center of the garden there was a large pool—a welcome place to cool off in the heat.
Our room was spacious and clean, and we were especially happy about the fridge.
We spent the afternoon by the pool—reading, swimming, and enjoying the beautiful day.
That evening, we walked back into town and enjoyed a delicious Laotian dinner at a beautiful restaurant. Set on a hill, its terrace offered a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. The mood as the sun slowly sank behind the jagged karst mountains is one we’ll never forget.
The next day was a very special day - my sister’s birthday - and we had booked a special tour with a tuk-tuk driver to celebrate. After a wonderful breakfast by the pool, we were picked up for the day’s adventure.
Our first stop was a small village by a river, nestled in a dreamlike landscape that looked like something from another world.
Next, we visited the Elephant Cave Tham Xang, named after a rock formation that remarkably resembles an elephant. We had the entire site to ourselves—no other tourists, just silence and a magical atmosphere.
Nearby was a traditional village where we got an authentic impression of everyday life in Laos.
There were simple houses, children playing in the narrow streets, and women doing laundry by the river.
After exploring the village, we continued to Blue Lagoon 4—one of many natural pools in the region around Vang Vieng.
Set in a stunning location, the lagoon had sun loungers and giant rubber tubes to float in the water. The water itself was turquoise-blue and so clear that you could see all the way to the bottom.
We spent nearly two hours at this magical spot—most of it completely alone. Only later a few other tourists arrived.
Our final stop was the Tham Nam Water Cave, where we lay on rubber tubes and pulled ourselves along a rope deep into a dark cave.
Equipped with headlamps, we floated past stunning rock formations and dripping stalactites hanging from the ceiling.
After that adventure, we treated ourselves to a coffee before heading back to the hotel. The journey led us through more small villages, offering further glimpses of life in this wonderful country.
We spent the rest of the afternoon at the pool.
Later, we visited the colorful night market in Vang Vieng, which we liked much better than the one in Vientiane.
We enjoyed delicious street food, bought a few souvenirs, and soaked up the last moments in this enchanting place—a village whose wild beauty will stay with us forever.