Day 2 – Three Lakes Tour: Grundlsee, Toplitzsee, Kammersee

After a very restful night accompanied by the sound of the Traun, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast the landlady had prepared for us.

Then we headed off to Grundlsee, the largest lake in Styria. It’s a mountain lake located about 700 meters above sea level. The water is crystal clear and very cold, even in high summer.

In the village of Grundlsee, we boarded a boat that took us to the far end of the lake. Along the way, we enjoyed the breathtaking panorama surrounding this beautiful lake. On the shores, we saw picturesque villages and rugged mountains. It all looked like something from a picture book.

At the far end, there are several ways to reach the Toplitzsee. We chose the so-called “Zwergerlweg” (Dwarf Path).

This path is more of a leisurely walk than a proper hike and is easily accessible for everyone – even with a bike or stroller.

Along the way, there are little displays showing scenes with dwarfs.

About half an hour later, we reached Toplitzsee – the setting of many myths and legends.

During World War II, crates of gold and other treasures were allegedly sunk here, though none have ever been found.

The lake definitely has a mystical feel, with steep rock walls rising from its shores. There is no development around the lake, just a small excursion restaurant and a boat landing.

Despite being accessible only on foot or by bicycle, Toplitzsee is a popular destination.

At the dock, the famous wooden boats bob in the water, ready to take visitors across the lake.

We boarded one of these boats. The ride took us through breathtaking scenery, with steep waterfalls tumbling down into the lake.

Our boatman also told us that several of these waterfalls have already dried up due to climate change – a disaster for this natural gem.

After about 15 minutes, we reached the other side of the lake. From there, a hiking trail leads to the small Kammersee in another 15–20 minutes.

The size of this lake fluctuates significantly depending on the season. The slow drying up of the water is also a concern here.

During the last ice age, all three lakes were still one connected body of water – today, it’s hard to imagine.

This tiny lake lies romantically in the middle of a forest, surrounded by mountains. Despite the many visitors, it exudes a remarkable tranquility.

We stayed at the lake for about 20 minutes before making our way back.

When we arrived at the boat landing on Toplitzsee again, we stopped at the cozy restaurant and ardered some cold drinks.

This time, we chose a different route back to Grundlsee that took us through a small village and past a charming little church.

At Grundlsee, we looked for a nice swimming spot – of course, we also wanted to take a dip in the lake.

The water was wonderfully refreshing, and the scenery was breathtaking. I swam out far again to fully take in the panorama.

Just as we were back on the boat crossing Grundlsee, dark clouds suddenly gathered and thunder rumbled. Not exactly ideal conditions when you’re traveling by scooter.

So we hurried back to Lauffen as quickly as possible.

There, celebrations for August 15th – the Feast of the Assumption – were in full swing. A local fair (Kirtag) was underway. At one of the tables, we spotted our host with some of his friends. When he saw us, he called us over, and we spent the rest of the afternoon in cheerful company. Thankfully, the storm had passed just as quickly as it had come.

When night fell, our host invited us down into his private wine cellar beneath the guesthouse, where we ended the evening in a cozy atmosphere.