Phnom Penh
The next morning began with a relaxed breakfast before our driver – who we had booked via Taxi4you again – picked us up from our hotel at 8:00 a.m.
We quickly left Siem Reap behind us and drove through numerous villages and small towns in the direction of Phnom Penh.
Along the way, we took a longer coffee break at an Amazon Café.
After nearly six hours of driving, we finally reached our apartment in Phnom Penh, located on the 7th floor of a huge, modern skyscraper about 20 minutes from the city center, in a residential complex.
We first had a small bite to eat at a little Chinese restaurant within the complex, then we wanted to check out the rooftop pool. Unfortunately, it turned out that the elevator to the 33rd floor, where the pool was located, was out of service due to maintenance work.
So we decided to try the second pool, located in the middle of a beautiful park area within the residential complex.
The pool was enormous and beautifully located, but unfortunately, the water was a bit too warm for my taste.
Still, we enjoyed a relaxing time by the pool, but then decided to pay the pool on the 33rd floor a visit after all. That meant taking another elevator to the 26th floor and walking the rest of the way. It turned out to be quite exhausting, but we were rewarded at the top with one of the most beautiful pools I have ever seen.
The view from up there over the whole city was breathtaking. Since the sun was just beginning to slowly set over the city, it created a mood unlike anything else.
In the evening, we ordered a tuk-tuk via the Grab app to Phnom Penh’s night market, beautifully located by the river.
We strolled a bit through the many narrow alleys of the market.There was even some live music.
Hungry, we started looking for food when we spotted an Italian restaurant in a dreamlike location right on the Tonle Sap River. We decided to go in.
From our spot on a terrace directly overlooking the Tonle Sap, we had a magnificent view over the water, where numerous boats passed by.
The food was quite good, but the wait was endless, and it couldn’t compete with Italian cuisine. My seafood pasta was really excellent, while my partner’s pizza tasted rather bland. But the unique atmosphere of this restaurant more than made up for it.
Afterward, we walked along the promenade by the river until we reached the spot where the Mekong and the Tonle Sap merge.
Two years after the Mekong cruise with my sister, I was finally back at this majestic river. That felt quite special.
We strolled a bit more through the vibrant city – the nightlife in Phnom Penh is truly impressive.
Back at the hotel, we soon fell into a deep sleep.
The next morning, we set off early for the city, wanting to see as much as possible before it would get too hot again .
First, we visited the Royal Palace with the Silver Pagoda, located in the midst of a beautiful garden – definitely worth a visit.
The Royal Palace is the official residence of the King of Cambodia and a very fine example of traditional Khmer architecture, with golden roofs and ornate decorations.
The floor of the Silver Pagoda, which is also located insde the garden, is covered with thousands of silver tiles.
Next, we continued to Wat Phnom, probably Phnom Penh’s most important temple. The temple sits on a hill in the middle of a park and is considered the birthplace of the city.
According to legend, it was founded in the 14th century by a woman who found four Buddha statues in a river.
In the park, you see children playing as well as adults enjoying themselves.
The atmosphere was very relaxed.
Not far from the park lies the city’s Hard Rock Café, where of course we had to pick up some T-shirts again.
Right across from the Hard Rock Café, we discovered a cozy little café. Since we hadn’t had breakfast yet, we decided to refuel with coffee and croissants.
We continued on to the city’s Central Market, where there was again a huge variety of goods – from meat and fish to fruits, vegetables, bags, cosmetics, and the ubiquitous souvenirs and fake products.
The selection was overwhelming. The architecture of the market hall was especially interesting. Tall, golden arches defined the space. The hall was built in the 1930s in Art Deco style and is frequented by both tourists and locals alike.
After the Central Market, we set out to explore Cambodia’s darker history.
Before our trip, I had researched extensively about the country’s more recent past, especially the Khmer Rouge regime, which from 1975 to 1980 wiped out nearly a quarter of the population, letting people waste away and be tortured in inhumane prison conditions. We visited one of these prisons, the infamous S21 Tuol Sleng.
There, you learn a lot about the country’s history and the people who fell victim to the regime. In numerous rooms, torture instruments are on display, and you walk through the narrow prison cells – a deeply oppressive experience.
Worst of all were the photos of the dead, often accompanied by the stories of their lives, which could be seen in many rooms.
Men, women, and children of all ages were among them – people who never had a chance to live a normal life.
Every traveler to Cambodia should visit this museum. It will not leave anyone untouched.
On the grounds, we also met two survivors of the genocide. Both elderly men have written down their stories and now sell them on-site.
Before the trip, I had read the book First They Killed My Father by Loung Ung, where she recounts how, as a five-year-old, she witnessed the invasion of the Khmer Rouge and later the deaths of her sister, father, mother, and youngest sister – and how she herself was trained to be a child soldier. I can highly recommend this book. There's even a well-made Netflix adaptation, directed by Angelina Jolie.
After the museum, we had actually planned to visit the Killing Fields as well, but the museum was already so emotional that we decided to return to our apartment after a light lunch and relax by the pool.
In the evening, we picked up some food from the supermarket in our complex and enjoyed a quiet evening in front of the TV.