Day 11: Samaria Gorge

The alarm rang at 4:00 a.m. It was still pitch dark outside, but we set off right away. A taxi took us to the bus station in Chania.
There, we bought tickets for the next bus to the Samaria Gorge.

The ride through the narrow switchbacks was pleasant. It was beautiful to watch the sun slowly rise over the mountains.

Upon arriving at the entrance to the gorge, we had breakfast at the nearby inn and bought a few souvenirs.
Then the adventure finally began.

After passing the entrance, we hiked steadily downhill – a real endurance test for our knees.

But we were rewarded again and again with the most stunning views of the mountains in the morning light.

Along the way, there were several places to rest and refill water bottles.

For two hours, we descended deeper and deeper into the gorge until we finally reached the bottom.

The path became much more pleasant here. We continued hiking over soft forest ground and made good progress.

Soon, however, the trail became rockier, with lots of loose scree.

Along the way, we repeatedly encountered donkeys carrying tired hikers.

The hike through the Samaria Gorge is beautiful but exhausting. The terrain keeps changing. Where the path runs through forest, it’s pleasant and relaxing. But then it often leads over rocks and boulders. You really have to watch your step to avoid slipping.

After a few hours, we reached the village of Samaria. Some families used to live here, but the village is now abandoned.

We decided to take a longer break here.

The village lies beautifully in a valley basin along a river. Several romantic stone and wooden bridges cross the stream. Most of the houses are in ruins, which adds to the charm of the place. Numerous tables and benches invite you to rest, and a spring provides fresh drinking water.

We found a cozy spot under a large tree and unpacked our sandwiches.

After a fairly long break, we continued on our way.

At first, we made good progress. The trail was wide, level, and led over soft forest ground.

Soon, however, the terrain changed again – we had reached the actual gorge.

This part is the most challenging of the entire hike. A proper path only exists in a few spots, and you mostly walk over rocks and rubble. On top of that, there’s the fatigue from the already long hike and the lack of sleep from the previous night.

Despite all that, our mood remained high. The landscape was simply stunning, like something out of a fairytale. The steep cliffs of the gorge towered on both sides. An ice-cold mountain stream ran through the gorge, which had to be crossed again and again.

Warning signs repeatedly alerted us to falling rocks.

We ventured deeper and deeper into the gorge, and the cliffs drew closer and closer together. The scenery was simply breathtaking

When we reached the exit of the gorge, we were glad for another resting spot under tall trees. We refilled our water bottles and cooled our flushed faces with the cold mountain water.

From here, the path became easier again, until we finally reached the end after about ten hours of hiking.

Shuttle buses waited there to take tired hikers to Agia Roumeli. While my son and I gratefully took this offer, my partner wanted to walk the final stretch as well.

In Agia Roumeli, we first stopped at a cozy taverna and satisfied our hunger with delicious pitas and ice-cold drinks.

Then we made our way to the ferry that brought us to Chora Sfakion, where another bus took us back to Chania.

This hike was without doubt the most strenuous, but also the most beautiful of my life.

Back at the hotel, we jumped into the pool. Swimming in the dark was wonderful. The cool water felt amazing on our sore muscles.

I will never forget this incredible day.