Amalfi Coast

The ferry was completely overcrowded, and free seats were scarce. What an enormous contrast to our relaxed journey here. The air was stuffy, filled with the sweat of far too many travelers. Nevertheless, we managed to secure two very tight seats at the very back.

As soon as we sat down, we fell asleep despite all the adversity and didn’t wake up until almost half an hour later when the ferry had already docked in Sorrento.

Although it was extremely hot, it felt good to be back in the fresh air. To our surprise, a bus bound for the train station was waiting for us at the port, and we gratefully got on.

Once at the train station, we visited a supermarket first to stock up on Italian delicacies for the evening. We were simply far too tired to search for a restaurant.

We boarded the next Circumvesuviana train, which took us to Vico Equense. From there, a bus carried us up the narrow serpentines into the mountains to San Andrea, where our charming, cozy hotel was already waiting for us. We would spend the rest of our vacation there and planned to explore the beautiful Amalfi Coast and the Gulf of Naples in the coming days.

The hotel exceeded all our expectations. Our room on the second floor offered a breathtaking view over the coast and the azure sea. In the beautiful garden, there was a lovely small pool, which was very welcome on this hot day.

In the evening, we enjoyed the feast we had brought with us – delicious Prosciutto Crudo, creamy Formaggio, and crispy bread – on our balcony and watched as the sun bathed the coastline in a breathtaking play of red, orange, and violet. A sight that would forever be etched into our memories.

On the Path of the Gods

The next morning, we woke up early and enjoyed a wonderful breakfast at the hotel. Fully motivated, we drove to Castellammare di Stabia, where we caught the bus to Bomerano, the starting point of the famous “Sentiero degli Dei” – the “Path of the Gods.”

In Bomerano, we were greeted by a breathtaking landscape. The small village lies above the Amalfi Coast on a plateau. Old brick houses blended picturesquely into the beautiful scenery.

At first, the hiking trail was very pleasant. The incline was moderate, so the path was manageable even for us inexperienced hikers. Along the first few kilometers, there were shady spots to rest and springs where we could refill our water supplies with refreshing water.

But when the sun reached its peak, the path turned into a real challenge. It was almost unbearably hot, not the slightest breeze offered relief, shade was rare, and the once fairly wide trail turned into a path over rocks and stones.

However, the breathtaking view of the stunningly beautiful coastline made up for all the effort. When Positano came into view, we knew we were going to make it.

When we finally reached Nocelle, we dragged ourselves, exhausted, into the first bar we could find, where we recharged with bruschetta and ice-cold, fruity lemon soda. The view from our seat in the bar was so breathtaking that we couldn't tear ourselves away for a long time.

Since there was no bus from Nocelle to Positano, we decided to continue on foot. That turned out to be a grave mistake, as we had severely underestimated the “Path of the 1,000 Steps.” So we descended step after step, which seemed never-ending.

Two hours later – with sore muscles and nearly unbearable knee pain – we finally reached the coastal road. As I was absolutely unable to walk another step, we waited for the bus. Since we didn’t have tickets – how could we? – the first driver didn’t take us. Fortunately, the next one took pity on my desperate appearance and let us on board. In Positano, we caught the next bus back to Sorrento and finally, after more than an hour, arrived back at our hotel, where we refreshed ourselves in the pool and then fell into a deep, exhausted sleep.

Along the Amalfi Coast by Vespa

The next morning, all was well again. After breakfast, we set off full of anticipation for Sorrento, where we had rented a Vespa to explore the Amalfi Coast.

Everything went smoothly, and shortly afterward, we were on the road. We bypassed Positano since we had already seen it the day before – briefly, but still.

This stretch of coastline is perfect for two-wheeled vehicles. Tourist crowds and rental car drivers were no issue for us. We enjoyed exploring this beautiful landscape in the breeze of the ride. Our route took us past picturesque villages nestled against the steep cliffs. Wherever we particularly liked it, we stopped to soak in the atmosphere of this unique landscape. We used two swimming stops to cool off in the sea.

Solitude, however, is nowhere to be found in this area – the coast is simply too famous. Everywhere the villages were crowded with tourists, the beaches were packed, and even in the water, it was hard to find enough space to really swim. Still, I wholeheartedly recommend a trip there – perhaps during the off-season or shoulder season.

We took a longer break in Amalfi. We found a charming little pizzeria with very fair prices. For two pizzas, two drinks, two cappuccinos, and a dessert, we paid just 40 euros. The food was fabulous. Then we explored the town, which is truly beautiful and well worth a visit. Of course, we also tried the famous lemon ice cream. The lemons are so ripe you can practically taste the ever-present sun in them.

We continued along dreamy villages and charming little bays.

It was quite late when we returned to the hotel, but we still decided to go out to eat. On Google Maps, I had discovered a small fish restaurant off the tourist trail that I really wanted to try. I ordered mussels, which were so fresh and juicy that I had never tasted anything like them before, along with calamari that were perfectly cooked. My partner had the fish of the day, which was also cooked to perfection and tasted just like the sea we had swum in earlier.

Completely satisfied, we let the day come to a close. The Amalfi Coast had enchanted us and would stay with us forever.