We landed in Naples at 7:00 p.m. after a very short and relaxed flight. Since the reception at our hotel closed at 8:00 p.m., we decided to take a taxi into the city center.

Our cozy little accommodation was located right in the heart of the city, just a few minutes from Piazza Garibaldi and the metro.

We had booked a small double room with a shared bathroom and a balcony on the 7th floor. The view over the rooftops of Naples was simply a dream.

After unpacking, we went looking for something to eat. The recommended pizzeria was completely packed – and we were too hungry to wait. So we spontaneously sat down at a pizzeria on the other side of the street, where we ordered a crispy Margherita pizza, a spicy Quattro Stagioni and a bottle of deep red wine. The food was wonderful, and we didn’t regret our spontaneous decision at all.

Then we strolled through the Spaccanapoli – a street that cuts through Naples like a narrow, straight line and, as the name suggests, splits the city in two parts.

Life is buzzing here: people strolling, quaint bars, cozy cafés, small restaurants and colorful souvenir shops. As everywhere in Italy, life in Naples takes place on the street. The atmosphere was wonderful, and we enjoyed the mild evening in this exciting city.

A wonderful day in Naples

The next day was my birthday. We got up early to make the most of the day before the midday sun turned the city into a shimmering heatwave again. After breakfast in a small bar in one of the countless old town alleys, we began our walk through Naples.

It wasn’t my first time in the city. I had been here before with my sister in the 1980s and again later several times.

Naples is not a classically beautiful city – it’s not love at first sight. Naples is loud, chaotic, dirty, full of cars and mopeds driving wildly in all directions and constantly honking.

And yet Naples is authentic. The people are warm and open, the way of life unmistakably Italian, and tourism plays only a minor role.

Of course, there are also the classic sights: the Galleria Umberto I, the old town with Spaccanapoli and Via San Gregorio Armeno, the catacombs, churches, museums and modern shopping streets.

Nevertheless, most tourists only come here to continue directly to Pompeii or the Amalfi Coast.

A big mistake in my opinion – because Naples is definitely worth a longer stay.

It took me three tries to realize that. At first, I too only had Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast in mind. But during my fourth visit – during Holy Week in 2016 – I finally fell in love with this vibrant city.

Back then I was traveling with my partner and my son, and we were staying in Pompeii. We only went to Naples because it was too cloudy to visit Mount Vesuvius that day. I’m glad we did – because that spontaneous trip changed my view of Naples forever.

So during this visit in summer 2023, we didn’t feel the need to tick off all the sights again. Instead, we immersed ourselves in the colorful hustle and bustle of the city, enjoyed la dolce vita and the warm hospitality of the Neapolitans.

We strolled through the old town, swam in the sea, ate fantastic pizza and took the funicular up to Montesanto, where we watched the sun slowly bathe the hills and beaches in soft evening light.

A beautiful day in Naples came to an end. Since we wanted to take the first ferry to Capri the next day, we didn’t stay out too late.